Fog City Boy on the Camino del Norte

Hendersonville, November 24, 2024

3 and 4 September 2024 – to Bilbao

About one year ago, the Fog City Boy cut short his journey on the Camino del Norte to return to Hendersonville, North Carolina to help the Fog City Consort (wife, Ginna) with her recovery from bilateral bursitis of the hips. She has recovered, and the Fog City Boy has returned to the Camino.

The transit, starting on 3 September, was from Asheville (AVL) to Bilbao (BIO) by way of Frankfurt (FRA), arriving on 4 September. Last time Air France; this time Lufthansa. Both airlines provided comfortable accommodation and very good food! A taxi delivered me too my lodging in the center of the city.

The Fog City Boy celebrated his return to Bilbao at a friendly bar near his hotel, with a glass of vino tinto and a pincho.

Pinchos are ubiquitous and quite varied throughout Basque Country. This one was fried pigs’ ears. Crunchy but tasty. Pinchos are to be distinguished from tapas. Pinchos are small offerings, a snack, typically held together with a toothpick. Pincho means “spike.” Tapas are small plate offerings, typically more substantial than a pincho.

5 September 2024 – Portugalate to Pobeña

Last year, the Boy expended substantial walking capital (i.e., hadn’t yet found his walking legs) between Bilbao and Portugalate. So he hired a taxi from Portugalate to Pobeña, and walked on from there. This year, the Boy boarded the L2 subway line in Bilbao and disembarked in Portugalate, to walk The Way to Pobeña.

The Way passes a cemetery inaugurated in 1878. Signage at the entrance states that the remains of the working class and the bourgeoisie were laid to rest side by side.

The Way continues along a pedestrian and cyclist path for several kilometers, eventually reaching Zierbena where the Way climbs a hill with a political message . . .

. . . and ducks under a decorated underpass. Some graffiti art is better than others.

In Zierbena, a discrete waymark points the way.

La Arena with beaches and lovely vistas. It is a popular surfing destination.

Then a footbridge delivers the peregrino to Pobeña.

Having “connected the dots,” the Boy caught a local bus that in time let him off at a Metro Station, where he rode the L2 again to his lodging in Bilbao.

6, 7, and 8 September 2024 – Bilbao to Santander and to Santillana del Mar

The Boy was up and had a nourishing breakfast and headed into the subway again. A couple of stops later he emerged and walked a block to the Bilbao bus terminal. Alas, for intercity travel, all parties including peregrinos need a reservation. Headed to Santander, I got one, but had a three hour wait. Arriving in Santander, I found my hotel and then spent some time observing the stylish folks walking the boulevard during the traditional late afternoon promenade near universal in Spain and Portugal.

Stripes were in!

The next morning the Fog City Boy proceeded to the rail terminal and got a train to Bezana, where he had spent the night last year, before boarding a train to Boo and before walking to Cudón. This time, again ‘connecting the dots,’ the Boy walked from Bezana to Boo.

Iglesia de Santa Cruz (Bezana).

A mural depicting the Camino del Norte.

A lovely day a short walk from Bezana.

Welcome to Boo Pielagos!

Once in Boo, I found the train station . . .

. . . boarded a train for the short run to Mogro . . .

. . . alighted and returned to the bar I had visited the year before. The business on this afternoon was brisk. The proprietor pointed me to a posted sign with the phone number of the local taxi. I dialed, and happily, he came for me in about 15 minutes. The taxi took the me to Santillana del Mar from which I would return to Cudoñ the next day to continue The Way. In the meantime, the Boy explored the town.

Colegiata de Santillana del Mar. The flag of the municipality.

Dating from medieval times, the streets are paved with cobblestones in the old part of town. Shops and restaurants abound. Santillana is a regular destination for tour buses and tourists on their own. The old town supplies a backdrop as a period locale for many films made there.

Dinner that night was anchovies, peppers, and tomato salad, and of course, vino tinto.

The Boy was up timely and a taxi returned him to the super mercado in Cudón where he had purchased lunch one year before. He set out for Santillana del Mar.

The countryside was lovely.

A decorated tunnel proved again that some graffiti is better than others. With or without a political message.

Upon arriving in Santillana, the Boy enjoyed a refreshment at a café in the old town, and the music of a harpist who was talented and performed in an elegant gown.

Supper was the Iberian version of hush puppies with, again, vino tinto.

9 September 2024 – Santillana to Ruiloba

The Boy slept well and was up timely, had a good breakfast at his lodging and set out on The Way again. A statue of Santiago was there to encourage his perigrenacion.

Shortly after departing Santillana, The Way passed a paddock populated with two proud parents and their attentive child.

The Way continues, as it often does, through lovely pastoral vistas.

Later that morning, the Boy followed The Way to Oreña, passing by the 16th Century Iglasia de San Pedro.

The Way passes through Lorendo-Novales, a small hamlet with historic churches.

And continues to Cóbreces, with a welcoming statue for those on The Way.

And a festively decorated church behind!

The Boy continued through Cóbreces but failed to take note of the admonition in one of his (three) guidebooks: “There is an alternate route which may cause some confusion in Cóbreces. It turns left at the Iglesia de San Pedro and follows a more southerly route to La Iglesia.”

Well, The Boy turned left. And in a few minutes found himself on a pleasant track through the woods and agricultural spaces, but otherwise a long way from anywhere.

So I missed Cóbreces but had a nice stroll for about an hour. I eventually emerged and continued on a pleasant path, where I lost my sunglasses, and in time found myself at my lodging for the night:

The Camping was quite pleasant. I had a small cabin to myself. There was a café and other amenities. There were cute girls retreating from the swimming pool wearing . . . well . . . lots of almost nothing at all. They were having fun. They enjoyed it and so did I.

10 September 2024 – Ruiloba to San Vincente de la Barquera

The many visitors to the Camping were not inclined to arise early, and the facilities were arrayed to accommodate that leisurely pace. Eventually the café was open for business and the Fog City Boy scored two cafés con leche. Thus fortified, the Boy set out for San Vincente.

The Way proceeds to and through Pando, passing the 17th century Iglesia Parroquial de la Asunción, and continuing along a pleasant path above the beach below.

The Way continues on to Comillas. The Way through town is not always well waymarked, but the Boy enjoyed one of the unanticipated detours.

Out of town, The Way heads to the beach and a Natural [sic} Park. Playa de Oyambre is blessed with lovely vistas and good waves. There are several surf schools nearby.

In the Parque Natural Oyambre The Way passes along the Rio El Capitan.

In time, the Boy reached the beach town of La Braña. There were several shops catering to the surf crowd. Ah ha! I thought. I’ll bet I can replace my sunglasses in one of them. Indeed, that store had a good selection of options. I found one I liked and inquired. The nice young lady behind the counter said, “€ 79.00” She explained that all of the ones they offer carry the logo of someone famous, of whom I had never heard. So, thinking the price was a bit steep, I thanked the young lady, and continued on The Way.

The Boy walked through town, found his lodging, and settled in. The forecast was for heavy rain most of the next day. The Boy decided to embrace a recovery day and booked for two nights.

11 September 2024 – At San Vincente de la Barquera

The rain came in the afternoon, but the Boy had taken the opportunity to explore the town.

The town is historically focused on ship building and maritime trade. A charming fountain in the main park captures that heritage.

The Boy then turned his attention to the mundane challenge of replacing his sunglasses. He found an optometrist on the main street and inquired of availability. The nice lady behind the counter produced several candidates. I chose one and inquired. Sun and UV protection only. No refraction.

“It’s € 106.00,” she said.

OMG.

Well, what the heck. They will probably cost more at the next town I come to. So now they are mine.

The Boy returned to his lodging, read a very interesting book about a long walk. And took advantage of an in-house laundry facility. The foyer to that facility boasted a charming mural of a mermaid by the sea.

With his wardrobe thus refreshed, the Fog City Boy had a nice dinner, got a good night’s rest, and set out again.

While, this entry is concluded, there is more to follow. FCB #43 will report the Boy’s journey from San Vincente to Villaviciosa and Casquita where the Camino splits. The Camino del Norte heads toward Gijon; The Camino Primitivo heads toward Oviedo.

FCB #43 will be published soon.

With that, my ruminations and this blog installment are concluded. As aforesaid, there is more to follow. Stay tuned!

And with that, I’m off.

Knute Michael

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