San Francisco, December 7, 2023
30 and 31 August 2023 – Hendersonville to Bilbao
The Fog City Boy departed Hendersonville, NC on August 30th intent on continuing the perigrenacion begun almost exactly one year before.
Transit to Bilbao (BIO) was by way of Atlanta (ATL), New York (JFK), and Amsterdam (AMS). It was a long trip, and the Fog City Boy didn’t get much sleep en route. The Amsterdam Airport, Schiphol, is enormous and very busy with both international and domestic travelers and busy retail offerings that would rival any large mall in the world. Schiphol is the third busiest airport in Europe. Walking from my arrival gate to my departure gate took well over 30 minutes.
After a final two-hour flight, I arrived at the Bilbao Airport in the late afternoon of August 31st. My hotel was a 30 minute taxi ride into Bilbao City Center. I’m back in Basque Country!
I explored the neighborhood in search of a restaurant for dinner. Near the hotel is the Monumento del Sagrado Corazón (Monument of the Sacred Heart), 1927, by Pedro Muguruza.
1 September 2023 – At Bilbao
After a good night’s rest, the Fog City Boy set out to visit several landmarks along the Way as it proceeds through Bilbao. The first, and most distant from his hotel was Basilica de Begoña (or more formally, Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Begoña). Just outside, the Fog City Boy located the first Camino waymark of the renewed perigrenacion. Appropriately, it proclaimed its purpose in both Spanish and in Basque.
The Basilica is dedicated to the patron saint of Biscay, the Virgin Begoña. Construction began in 1511. Today, Begoña is a pleasant neighborhood in Bilbao. The Fog City Boy got the first stamp (sella) in his pilgrim’s passport (Credencial del Peregrino) at the Basilica.
The Fog City Boy departed the Basilica and formally began his renewed perigrenacion on The Way of St. James. Shortly after leaving the Basilica, a more traditional waymark appeared, And other reminders of the spiritual underpinnings of The Way.
The Way passes a municipal Campos de Futbol.
And a city park with wonderful views of the skyline.
The Way continues through Bilbao, eventually reaching the Catádral de Santiago, built during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. James and faces on Plazatxoa Done Jakue (Basque), the Plaza of St. James. It is part of Bilbao’s Old Town. The Fog City Boy received his second sella.
Emerging from Old Town, The Way passes by the Parroquia de San Anton, the Church of St. Anthony the Great, completed in 1510. And, yes, the Fog City Boy received his third sella at the Parroquia!
The Fog City Boy returned to his hotel for dinner – salade de pulpo!
And a good night’s rest. He did not visit the famed Guggenheim Museum on this occasion. He and the Fog City Consort (wife Ginna) visited the Museum en route from Santiago to London after the conclusion of his first perigrenacion a decade ago. That said, the Fog City Boy recommends the Museum to peregrinos and others who might be passing through Bilbao.
2 September 2023 – Bilbao to Portugalete
There are three accepted routes to Portugalete for the peregrino to choose from. The Fog City Boy chose the route that hugs the west bank of the Nervion River and follows route N-634. Not much scenery, but on occasion a surprise. A mock sailing ship beckons the adventuresome!
The Fog City Boy reached Portugalete in late afternoon and located his lodging for the night – an unattended pension just off the main thoroughfare through town. Getting admission proved quite difficult because of confusing signage at the entrance. But through the kindness of a nearby resident, the Boy received the admission code and all went well after that.
For 200 years, Portugalete was a competitor to Bilbao with respect to maritime commerce. But, in 1511 trade privileges were awarded to Bilbao, but not to Portugalete, and trade shifted upriver. The city is densely populated and blessed with steep hills for the populace to navigate. Outdoor moving walkways provide relief.
Adjacent to the walkway, a sculpture celebrating women’s contributions to everyday life.
Nowadays, Portugalete is internationally known for the Vizcaya transporter bridge, which I visited the next morning.
Signage near the bridge reads as follows:
And, the transporter bridge “in action.”
3 September 2023 – Portugalete to Ontón
Hans Peter Kerkeling (HaPe) is a German television personality who, in 2006, wrote a book about his experiences on the Camino, and in the process hugely popularized the Camino in Europe and elsewhere. Early on, he mentions that it takes about 10 days to “get your walking legs.” The Fog City Boy can attest to that. After the trek from Bilbao to Portugalete, the Fog City Boy decided that it would be prudent to limit how much his legs – not yet walking legs – were challenged en route to Ontón. So the Boy hired a taxi to take him part way – to Pobeña – where he rejoined The Way.
Pobeña is a pleasant, very small, town with a generous park in the town center. A signpost pointed to The Way.
After a climbing a long staircase, The Way then follows an old railway right-of-way, hugging the coast, and preserving two railway tunnels. The railway hauled iron ore from local mines to ships taking the ore to distant destinations. Mining is still active in the area.
The day was overcast but the views were spectacular, none the less.
The Fog City Boy continued on toward Ontón, then up a substantial grade shared with oncoming traffic, to a hotel conveniently located across the street from a gas station/truck stop, and immediately adjacent to a discount furniture warehouse.
But the beer was cold, the food was good, the staff were cordial, and the bed was comfortable.
4 September 2023 – Ontón to Castro-Urdiales
The Fog City Boy was up timely, had a decent breakfast, and headed for Castro-Urdiales, retracing his steps for about a kilometer, this time down the hill. Most of The Way at this point is along the N-634. The Boy reached Castro in the early afternoon. The community sports a wonderful promenade adjacent to a long and lovely beach.
After checking in at a comfortable pension in mid-town, the Boy enjoyed a sandwich and a cerveza at a local café. The café faced on a small plaza that included a children’s play space, thoughtfully covered to protect the equipment, the children, and their parents from both sun and rain.
5 September 2023 – Castro-Urdiales to Rioseco
On the way out of town, the Fog City Boy passed the charming but shuttered community mercado.
And the adjacent entrance to its replacement.
The Way continues through a largely residential part of town, eventually climbing to a road above Castro’s outskirts leading to Cérdigo and continuing through a tunnel. Various graffiti adorned the tunnel walls, some of it with political content:
The Way leads to the coastal town of Islares. Iglesia de San Martin welcomes peregrinos passing through.
Pavement eventually gives way to an unpaved pathway. Beautiful views, too.
And then a suburban style neighborhood with an imposing granite landmark at the end of town.
The path turns inland though the bay accompanies The Way for several kilometers. A monument stands by the pathway. It is a memorial to D. Angel Diaz Vela, the parish priest of Castro-Urdiales. He died in 1980 at the age of 29.
In time, the Fog City Boy reached his destination for the night, Rioseco.
There wasn’t much to be found there. A café, a gas station, a food market, And a posada – Posada Fernanda – which was very comfortable and hospitable.
Also, the 17th century Iglesia de San Vicente de la Maza, which was some distance from town and was closed that day.
Neither Posada Fernanda nor the café served a dinner meal, but the innkeeper pointed out the microwave and directed me to the market where I could buy something for dinner. She admonished me that the microwave was for heating, not cooking! A short walk to the market included crossing a picturesque stone bridge.
At the market, I found a prepared pasta dish of some sort, a small baguette, and happily, a pleasant bottle of vino tinto. The pasta heated successfully in the microwave. Breakfast was provided on the next morning and it was quite satisfactory.
6 September 2023 – Rioseco to Laredo
The Way continues from Rioseco along the highway to the tiny hamlet of La Magdalena, eventually diverting through parkland, crossing a stream, and turning toward a few houses and the beginning of a long climb. One of the houses sported a guard dog who loudly took exception to the arrival of the Fog City Boy. Fortunately, el perro was firmly leashed. The Way continues a short distance along a paved surface, but rapidly becomes a dirt track through forested land. The ascent was about 250 meters and nearly as much on the decent. Shortly after midday, the Boy reached Hazas which is at the center of the Liendo area, a collection of towns spread out across the valley.
The Fog City Boy paused at a café near the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, at the center off town.
The Way continues on for several kilometers, traversing yet another mountain. Though getting closer to having his walking legs, the Fog City Boy opted for a taxi for the rest of the journey to Laredo. Laredo is a beach town with historical ties to the fishing community. A trio of statues celebrates Laredo’s past and present reliance on fishing and fishermen. The Parque de los Tres Pescadores:
Lodging was at a charming, old fashioned hotel, El Ancla (The Anchor), that was decorated with myriad nautical themed paraphernalia.
7 September 2023 – Laredo to Noja
The Way follows the beachfront for several kilometers.
At the end of the beachfront promenade, the Way continues through a light industrial area, eventually reaching a beach – Playa de La Salvé – and a small ferry that will transport peregrinos across the estuary to Santoña, another town that celebrates its connection to the sea and its fish!
Christopher Columbus’ Santa Maria was built in Santoña. The Fog City Boy met a group of American tourists who were traversing the town! We chatted for a time and went our separate ways. The Way continues through town and beyond, passing the large El Dueso prison behind tall stone walls, eventually arriving at the beach town of Berria. Surfing is popular and surfing schools abound.
The approach to Noja was long, hot and dusty, but the Fog City Boy found a place to take a break. And the community posted a warning to those approaching its beautiful beaches.
The Boy arrived in mid-afternoon and enjoyed watching the beach and beach-goers from a hotel and café high above.
8 September 2023 – Noja to Guemes
The Boy was up timely but breakfast was not until 8:00, so The Boy struck out along the Way. Eventually he discovered a café where he could enjoy dos cafés con leche. Thus fortified, The Boy continued through Arnuero, and beyond.
Peregrinos who are veterans of the Camino del Norte, and all guidebooks to the route, agree . . . the Albergue La Cabana del Abuela Peuto (which translates as “Grandma’s Cabin”) is unique, very hospitable, and not to be missed.
The Fog City Boy arrived in time for a two o’clock lunch to be enjoyed “family style” with other travelers who had arrived timely. The albergue is the conception and life’s work of Ernesto Busto and his band of volunteer supporters. The facility is quite large – sporting at least 100 beds.
On my arrival, peregrinos were sorted by language and assigned beds in rooms with others speaking the same tongue. My German was good enough to get me assigned to a room with Germans, Austrians, and a Swiss. That was cool! Late in the day we were joined by a peregrino from Estonia. He didn’t speak German, but the rest of us didn’t speak Estonian! The room had a capacity of 11, though by nightfall there were only 9 of us. The bunks were comfortable and each room included an in suite bathroom with a toilet and sink. Showers and washers and dryers were available elsewhere on the campus.
Of particular interest is a building designated as La Ermita – a place for contemplation and meditation.
Before dinner, Ernesto addressed the 80 or so of us who were his guests. Dinner, and breakfast the next morning, were, again, family style. There is never a charge to stay at the alberque. Staying there as a respite on The Way, the welcome, and the fellowship is strictly donativo.
9 September 2023 – Guemes to Santander
Everyone at the albergue was up early, assembled their gear, and enjoyed a simple breakfast of bread, butter, jelly, and coffee. We all bid Ernesto thanks and he bid us “Buen Camino!”
The Way proceeds toward the coast and then directly through Somo, a surfer’s town. The Fog City Boy paused for a light lunch and then found the ferry that would take him and others the 5.6 kilometers to Santander. There is an alternate route that avoids the water crossing, but it is 27.5 kilometers by land.
Most peregrinos opt for the ferry.
Upon arrival, the Fog City Boy immediately got lost and wandered along the waterfront in search of his hotel. Google Maps only got him more lost. But eventually, all bad things must come to an end. The Boy found his lodging for two nights, and settled in.
10 September 2023 – At Santander
The hotel provided a very excellent breakfast buffet which The Boy greatly enjoyed on both mornings during his stay. This day would be both a recovery day and a day of exploration. The Boy set out to see the sights.
The plaza and elegant ediface at Pereda Gardens.
The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Assunción.
Local Enterprise?
The Main Street through Santander is an elegant boulevard.
Peregrinos are guided and welcome.
Santander, like Portugalate and many other port cities (including the Fog City Boy’s hometown), have to contend with many hills. San Francisco has yet to adopt escalators as an aid to those scaling The City’s hills.
Since 1983, the Parliament of Cantabria has held its sessions in the building that formerly housed the Hospital de San Rafael. It is considered a neoclassical building, built in 1791 and restored between 1983 and 1987.
Nearby, offices of the Department of Justice.
A nearby apartment building sports whimsical decorations.
Reflecting its maritime heritage . . “Searching the Horizon.”
The Santander City Hall.
11 September 2023 – Santander to Santa Cruz de Bezana
The Way proceeds along Santander’s principal thoroughfare which sports commercial establishments of all sorts. . .
. . . which becomes a divided street with a charming central median park. A model of Santander’s gothic cathedral commemorates its 100th year.
The Way continues out of town and for some distance parallels a railroad right of way.
In time, the Way reaches Santa Cruz de Bezana, a community that warmly welcomes peregrinos.
The Boy found his lodging for the night and explored the town. Bezana’s town park sported a number of unique entertainments, all solidly emplaced in concrete.
And the Boy’s favorite! It brings a whole new meaning to aerobic “Spinning.”
Dinner was al fresco near the night’s lodging. The Boy opted for a burger. It was much more than even this weary peregrino could handle.
12, 13, and 14 September 2023 – Santa Cruz de Bezana to Codón and Beyond
The Way continues for a couple of kilometers before becoming much too dangerous to traverse because of the necessity of crossing a railroad bridge in hopes of not being confronted by a very swift train. The prudent course, and one legally mandated, is to take the train for a stop or two, arriving at Boo de Piélags.
Though most all pronounce Boo as “Boo,” the Fog City Boy is informed that it should be pronounced “Bow.” Whichever is correct, the Boy had not had his morning café con leche yet that morning, so a brief sojourn near the train stop was a relief. After that, the Boy walked on. Mogro is host to a handsome parish church.
The Way continues with a lovely pastoral vista.
The countryside sports frequent granaries, most of similar design.
The architecture of the church in Cudón carries out the local commitment to the vicinity’s agricultural heritage.
The Fog City Boy found his lodging early this day. A Casa Rural in a charming setting. Comfortable and welcoming.
The innkeeper had no meal service midday, but recommended the super mercado a short distance away. Well . . . the super mercado turned out to be a gas station convenience store. But, no matter. Sustenance was found. Not last night’s over-the-top burger, but the Boy wasn’t going to have to skip lunch altogether.
While enjoying his pork and beans, the Boy called home. As it happened, the Fog City Consort at that moment was being treated at a nearby Hendersonville, North Carolina ER for a very painful, but thankfully transitory, condition – bilateral bursitis of the hips.
With the benefit of a reassuring orthopedist and four weeks of skillful physical therapy and exercises, she is fully recovered and pain free with no expectation of re-occurrence.
Finishing his pork and beans, the Fog City Boy determined that his place was with his Consort, not on the Camino.
And so, over her objections but never-the-less, with the assistance of the innkeeper, the next morning, a genial taxi driver took the Fog City Boy from Cudón to the Bilbao Airport. The following morning, the Boy returned to Hendersonville by way of Paris and Atlanta. I was thankful to be there of assistance to and for Ginna as she recovered.
Both the Fog City Boy and the Fog City Consort are now back home in San Francisco.
That said, as was the case a year ago, all in good time. The Fog City Boy is planning to continue the Norte from Cudón sometime next year. Stay tuned!
And with that, I’m off.
Knute Michael
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The Fog City Boy had a reservation at a small pension in the Bayonne’s old town, just two blocks from the Cathedral where, on the next morning, he would receive his first sella of the perigrenacion. The lodging was clean and comfortable, though hauling my mochila up four flights of stairs was not fun. Hauling it down the next morning wasn’t either.
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Flag of Oxfordshire
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As charming as the English countryside is, and as cheery as the English pubs are, the Fog City Boy was pleased to be back in Spain with a Camino walk awaiting him the next day.
Sadly, the festive atmosphere does not extend to all on the approaches to the Plaza and to the Cathedral. There have been alms seekers each time I have visited Santiago. Generally they are quite passive, but occasionally they walk from cafe to cafe asking for money. I prefer to give them food rather than money.
Shortly thereafter, The Way to Finesterre passes by the home of a local supporter of the Camino who made known his or her affection for peregrinos passing by.
. . . though the gracious, unfinished residence casts an emotional shadow.
My destination for the day was Casa Loncho a casa rural in Olveiroa. I arrived in time for a late lunch, and the opportunity to use Casa Loncho’s laundry facilities. The complex includes a large private albergue and a very large and well preserved horreo, for which the albergue is named.
And a long line of windmills . . .
Here’s the detail showing distances and destinations . . .
Many pilgrims choose at this point to head first to Finisterre and then continue on to Muxia, possibly returning to this point to complete the circuit. Some keep on going and walk back to Santiago! My travel commitments did not permit me to walk the Muxia circuit on this transit. That leaves something for a future perigrenacion!
The Camino Finisterre drops down from the ridge it traverses to the Marco do Couto, an 18th century wayside cross.
The Camino continues on.
The Camino Finisterre generally hugs the coast from Cee to Finisterre. (Spelled and pronounced in the Galician language as “Fisterre”.) It passes through the town of Corcubion.
About an hour later, I reached Finesterre. If you talk to a peregrino who has journeyed to Finesterre, you likely will come away believing that there is nothing there but the lighthouse, an albergue where you receive your Compostela, and other peregrinos.
I located my lodging for the evening, sought and received directions to the lighthouse on Cabo Finisterre. In early afternoon, I began the final stage of this perigrenacion.
Signage provides guidance – just in case you’re lost . . .
A cruceiro in a vineyard.
After about an hour after leaving Ancora, I came upon a herd of goats enjoying a seaside brunch. In the distance you can see Monte Tecla which dominates a peninsula on the Spanish side of the Rio Minho (Rio Min͂o).
I arrived in Caminha, briefly explored the central city, and at about noon proceeded to the ferry. The ferry was a modern catamaran design and was moored conveniently to the town. A gentleman who appeared to be part of the ferry operation told me that the ferry wouldn’t set out again until 2:00 – however, there was a small boat that could take me now. Was I interested? I looked over the small boat. It appeared seaworthy. Already aboard were two peregrinos from Japan who were doing their perigrenacion on bicycles, also on board. We chatted briefly and the boatman cast off.
The Japanese fellows got on their bikes and went on – up and over Monte Tecla – the official Camino de la Costa. I continued around the mountain on the Senda Literal which skirted lovely beaches. I paused and looked back at Portugal.
It was strategically placed with a commanding view of the sea to the west . . .
The Spanish verb “aguardar” can mean variously, ”to keep,” “to watch,” to guard.” An appropriate name for the town that grew up beneath the castle!
The sculptures celebrate common folk rather than royalty.
A mason . . .
A young woman in the wind, facing the sea, waiving to her lover . . .
The Monastery is closed to the public at present. A private development concern has undertaken to restore the monastery and adjacent buildings with the aim of establishing it as a 4-star hotel with meeting rooms and other facilities. They hope to develop year-round tourism which the locals accept with mixed emotions.
A little further along and on the other side of the road, no swimming pool, but a great view.
As elsewhere in Spain, the local authorities have taken steps to facilitate peregrinos and keep them safe from vehicular traffic. Note the granite peak in the distance.
Another coastal home. Note that it is constructed of granite blocks, an oft-used building material in this corner of Spain.
And, atop the granite peak, the Faro de Cabo Silleiro, built in 1924 and projecting a light 44 kilometers (24 nautical miles).
What would the large version have looked like!?! I enjoyed half the sandwich and saved the other for lunch the next day.
A handsome fonte dating from 1865 is situated near the town center.
The placard explains that the fountain was donated to the city of Baiona by Ventura Misa y Bertemati, a local entrepreneur.
I wandered the town for a time. The billboard below was not the first one I had encountered offering instruction in the English language.
As previously noted, political messaging in Spain is not uncommon.
More beautiful scenery, but increasingly developed for visitors’ enjoyment.
About two hours into the day, the Senda Litoral rejoins the Camino de la Costa. At this point The Way becomes quite hilly which is, on the one hand challenging, but on the other, affords wonderful views.
I gave her the address for my blog. I’m hoping she is reading this now!
The Camino de la Costa continues through a lightly wooded landscape. . .
. . . before reaching Redondela where it rejoins the Camino Central – the traditional Camino Portugues.
At Arcada, a Roman bridge still crosses the Rio de Vigo.
Once across, there are more than one challenging climb!
We are now well into Galicia. The frequency of Crucieros increases.
Later in the day, I came upon the Capela da Marta, dating from 1817
Shortly after that, I decided to walk a detour from the regular Way – the Senda Fluvial rio dos Grafos Tomeza. This was a lovely, shaded, and engaging walk through the woods along a babbling brook!
. . . and continued a little more than three kilometers, passing by a charming painted tile on a wall surrounding a suburban house depicting St. James, a Camino waymark, and the cathedral in Santiago. . .
. . . they were welcoming and acknowledging the pilgrims passing by . . . and I continued my perigrenacion to Santiago via the Variante Espiritual.
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Soon the river met the sea, and the vista became more dramatic.
The weather improved during the course of the morning. I passed through a small fishing village, continued on along a network of boardwalks and accompanying views.
High on a bluff a cross reached out to the faithful.
Sometime after noon, I came to a small village and discovered a small café where a half-dozen young workingmen were enjoying a hearty lunch. I presented myself and the matron of the café asked, “peixe ou carne?” I responded “peixe“ (pronounced “pesche”). I could infer from her next query that she wanted to know “what kind?” I told her with gestures that she should choose. A few minutes later she returned from an outdoor barbeque manned by her husband with a wonderful a whole fish – expertly fileted, moist and tender. With boiled potatoes, cabbage, bread, sparkling water, it was the best meal I had in all of Portugal! The price? €7.50.
In the distance you can see an aqueduct built in the early 18th century. It supplied water to the entire city from the nearby hills.
This time, the day started out on the “official” Caminha da Costa. Leaving Vila do Conde, The Way is well waymarked and passes through developed districts eventually reaching Povoa Varzim which hosts a handsome church.
My Caminha friends from London offered to take my picture after we successfully exited a long wooded stretch with intermittent rain.
We passed by a lovely shrine en route.
It was a lovely day, and the views were rewarding.
And many decorated bicycles!
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