Fog City Boy on the Camino del Norte
San Francisco – April 12, 2025
12 and 13 September 2024 – San Vincente de la Barquera to Pesués
The forecast was for heavy rain and, while the Fog City Boy has walked in the rain many times (when it rains, you just keep walking!), the Boy has an aversion to walking in lengthy downpours. So, the Boy asked the hotel to call a taxi to transport him to Persués, his next destination on The Way. After arrival, the Boy spent the rest of the day sitting on the porch at Hostal Baviera, watching the rain, and finishing his book. The bar served a local favorite – reminding the peregrino that he was headed to Galicia – and also served as a community package drop for deliveries. That suggests that there are porch pirates in Cantabria, as there are in much of the known world.
The next day, the Boy was up timely, arranged for a second night at the lodging, and returned by taxi to San Vincente. The Way actually bypasses most of San Vincente – continuing from the causeway up a moderately steep road traversing an upscale residential neighborhood and neighboring farmland.
The approach to Serdio, a small hamlet, is lovely.
The Camino Lebaniego splits from the Camino del Norte in Muñorrodero just after Serdio. The destination of that pilgrimage is the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liebana. That Camino has its own distinctive waymark – a red cross with a red arrow, often appearing with the traditional concha in parts of Cantabria. The Monastery is one of five sites empowered to grant perpetual indulgences. That camino is quite a climb! Ascent 2133 meters; descent 1636 meters. The Fog City Boy encouraged peregrinos headed up that climb, but did not accompany them!
After the split, the Camino del Norte continues on, adjacent to a foreboding and fenced mining facility, eventually crossing the Rio Nansa, before arriving at Persués. The Rio Nansa is home to the Escuela Paddle Surf Ocle.
The Fog City Boy did not sign up for lessons. Back in Persués, the Boy enjoyed a decent supper and bedded down for the night.
14 September 2024 – Persués to Buelna
The Way continues in close proximity to the Bay of Biscay crossing from Cantabria autonomous region (province) into Asturias autonomous region at the Rio Deva. Ribadedeva welcomes the traveler with a small park that features a statue of a peregrino.
The Way in Asturias begins with a long climb up a nicely paved senda, eventually arriving in Colombres.
The Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino del Norte provides this insight into Colombres:
“The Indianos . . . everyday Gallegos, Austurianos, Cantabrians, and Basques who because of their proximity to the sea were most able to emigrate from Spain to the Americas (central and south) during a period of great poverty in the late 19th century. A great many left but only a few struck it rich, and when they returned they turned their fortunes into building large manors and securing titles. Many of the houses still remain and those in Asturias are the finest example. They are sometimes colonial in style and always eclectic with palm trees as a tribute to their tropical lives.”
The Way passes a plaque capturing the departure of emegrees setting out for the Americas.
Many peregrinos rested and refreshed after the long climb at the Colombres park and town square, presided over by Iglesia de Santa Maria de Colombres.
The Way emerges from town and returns to a more rural track.
The Fog City Boy’s destination for the night was the Casa Rural de Aldea El Valle in Buelna – Llanes. Though the Boy had a legitimate address for the casa rural, it took a very long time to locate the venue, and when he got there, it was unattended. A few minutes after a phone call, a friendly attendant arrived and the Boy checked in. The Casa was actually quite charming.
The Casa did not have evening food service nor was there any in the town, but there was a microwave and the hotelier pointed the way to a Supermercado Día where the Boy and others staying there could purchase frozen meals suitable for the microwave. The Boy had pasta con pollo, pan, e vino tinto. Breakfast the next morning was provided and was quite satisfactory.
15 September 2024 – Buelna to Cue
Leaving Buelna, the Way hugs heavily traveled roadways and passes through several towns.
The Boy found his lodging with less difficulty than the night before. Hotel Migal is situated on a bluff just outside the small village of Cue – Llanes. Overlooking the Bay there are beautiful views all around.
16 September 2024 – Cue to Llanes
The Boy got a late start to a short day and enjoyed the walk.
His lodging was Hotel Rocas located in the heart of Llanes, a city popular with tourists.
17 September 2024 – Llanes to Naves
The Fog City Boy made his way out of town passing several notable edifices along the way. Leaving tourism behind, the Boy captured political graffiti which, as his wont, he captured for the gentle reader.
The Way proceeds along an estuary with views of a handsome church in the distance. Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores.
The Boy’s lodging was at a small hotel that boasted a handsome horrero that provided shade in the afternoon and a pleasant setting for breakfast the next morning. Dinner that evening was at a pizza parlor a kilometer or so into town.
18 September 2024 – Naves to Cuerres
The Way continues along quiet country roads and sendas. A small shrine honors a departed loved one.
At Nueva, the Boy heard the sound of an approaching passenger train and paused to capture a picture of it as it passed by.
Later that morning, the Boy passed a rural residence that had been decorated with flowerpots, some of which were dressed as “flower children” sitting on the window ledge.
Eventually The Way departs Nueva and enters pastureland. The Peroquia de San Pedro Pria rises up above the pasture.
The views are compelling.
Continuing down from the Peroquia, The Way passes a medieval stone bridge.
Lodging that evening was at the Casa Rural Villalen. Quite isolated but quite comfortable.
19 September 2024 – Cuerres to Ribadesella
The proprietor of the hotel advised me to follow an alternate route which turned out to be a very pleasant stroll adjacent to an occasionally used railroad track. As is the case with many lesser railways in Spain and Portugal, the alignment is one meter gauge (39.37”) rather than standard gauge (4’8 ½”).
Eventually, The Way found itself in a more urban setting and continued on into Ribadesella.
The town was founded in 1270 by Alfonso X and developed around whaling.
My lodging was at a vintage hotel near the town center.
The lobby displayed state of the art communication equipment from another era (including a typewriter similar to the one on which The Boy learned to type)!
The Boy explored the town – which is known as a foodie favorite – and enjoyed a tasty dinner.
The Fog City Boy stayed two nights in Ribadesella, using it as a base of operations for the next day’s foray.
Stay tuned! Fog City Boy #44 will pick up the story and will be published soon.
With that, I’m off!
Knute Michael
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